Like so many people in Shreveport did, I woke up this morning to the terrible news that Elmer “Bigg Nokey” Henderson died on Tuesday night. By 7:15 a.m., a half-dozen friends and loved ones had called to commiserate. My lifelong friend Chris Allen, who was a friend of Nokey’s and occasionally bought lunch at the makeshift restaurant that Nokey operated out of a portable building in his yard, pointed out something that resonated with me: Bigg Nokey was an absolute embodiment of hope and strength. He was a born restaurateur, a gifted chef and, honest to God, the best networker to ever walk the earth. The first time I met Nokey, to interview him for an article that I wrote about him forย Louisiana Kitchen & Culture magazine, I left that meeting feeling as if I were Nokey’s new best friend. I imagine that he made everyone feel that way. To know him was to love him.
To remember Nokey by talking about his cooking seems a little reductive – he was a great chef and so much more – but you just can’t talk about him without talking about those incredible smoked “Nokey burgers” and his patented “Nokey Rotel,” a sort of kitchen sink version of Rotel dip that Nokey would customize in different versions that he called “exclusives.” If you never ate a platter of Nokey Rotel, I feel so sorry for you. You never will, either. Only one man could make it, and that man improvised with this dip like Ornette Coleman improvised with a saxophone. Nokey Rotel was seldom served exactly the same way twice, but one bite was all it took to know that this was Nokey Rotel.
If Elmer Henderson had been born into different circumstances, he’d have a multi-unit restaurant franchise by now. Kids would be begging their parents to take them to the neighborhood Nokey Burger after school. Despite his not having the resources to realize that dream of restaurant ownership, Nokey created his own version, right from his yard on Ice Cream Street. He dreamed of feeding the world, but he was proud to feed the Cooper Road neighborhood. And, by God, his community absolutely adored him. If we can measure success in this world by the number of folks who love us – and I figure that’s as good a way to do it as any – then Bigg Nokey left this world a millionaire.
There is so much more that I could say: He was incredibly good at using social media to promote his business. He was the most popular vendor at the annual Let the Good Times Roll Festival in downtown Shreveport, which will never be the same without him. He loved his sons very much.
The memory of Nokey that I will always treasure the most is from the day that my wife, Sara, and I hired Nokey to cater our birthday party in 2014. Nokey brought his grill, which he’d customized with blue LED running lights and named “the Nokey Train,” all the way from Cooper Road to Shreve Island, where 50 of us stood in the driveway listening to Old School, drinking beer and devouring incredible Nokey Burgers. Always in demand, he had to cater another event after our party, and he pulled out of the driveway with the grill still lit. Floating on a cloud of blue LED light, flames roared out of the Nokey Train as he sped to the next stop. That’s how I imagine he just pulled up in the afterlife: Nokey Train hooked up and glowing, windows down, music blaring, Nokey looking for a prime spot to get set up and feed the people.
Rest in peace, Elmer “Bigg Nokey” Henderson.
Absolutely beautiful!! R.I.P Nokey!!! The people that have moved to Dallas from the Cooper Road are mourning this morning… Man….
I have known Big Nokey for years and everything Chris wrote about him is %100 true…but I saw something happen today that is an amazing testament to what kind of person and friend he was to everyone that knew him. I was introduced to Nokey by my construction crew members about 12 years ago and he has been feeding me often ever since. Today when I got to work at 6:30 everything was normal and then Player Rays phone rang….he got off the phone and told us all what happened… then every single member of my crew (who are all hard as coffin nails) put their tools down right where they were standing and walked to their cars with their heads hung in sadness and left the job site to go be with Nokeys family and friends effectively shutting the Drs Hospital job down completely…its was truly moving. Nokey was proud to be from Shreveport, loved his neighborhood (Cooper Road) and loved cooking for the people in his community…he was a master street chef second to none!
…RIP Bigg Nokey I know there will be many “exclusives” served in heaven tonight!
Awesome article!! Great job!
The WHOLE HOOD LOVES YOU NOKEY…..THE HOOD MUST BE THE WHOLE WORLD!!! THATS HOW I FEEL! FOREVER IN MY HEART!!!!!!
This article had me in tears!!!!! Rest in Paradise Nokey….. I hope you remember our conversation the other day. I will never forget it…..
This is a beautiful article about my forever friend. This really shows how he impacted so many people’s lives from all walks of life. He is and will ALWAYS be remembered for the fun loving, funny as hell, gigantic hearted person he is. R.I.H. Bigg Nokey
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This what happens when you make an impact on people’s lives won’t be the same without this dude.
There is an outpouring of love for Nokey from all over that is well deserved. God bless his family and friends
Wow!!!! How beautiful of an article and all so true. Bigg Nokey was not only our schoolmate, neighborhood mate, and restaurantier, he was our brother and friend. We hugged at a mutual schoolmate’s wedding just a week ago. He never changed. He gave the traditional “what’s up girl? How ya been? How’s the Fam? It’s always good to see you!” To which I replied “Nokey, you good brother? Give me a hug! Love ya and you’re still my boy!”
Everyone got that because Nokey never knew a stranger.
Today I received several messages from people I had no idea he knew. They weren’t from the Cooper Road but they all said the same thing.
One said “He used to protect me at some place he did security!”
Another “he kept the jerks away from me. He was an amazing friend/coworker!”
Last one told me of how he brought neighborhoods together. He used food as an avenue and brought together two worlds of people who wouldn’t ordinarily “kick it” together. Wow!!!
Nokey, you are ok. Today, a week after our last encounter, I’m sure you are better than you’ve ever been. Heaven rejoices while we weep but we believe…. great is your reward.
You Sir, were #Legendary
My God you have spoken nothing but the truth. Nokey was such a beautiful. I remember watching a video of an event he catered. If I’m mistaken it was your event. We are all so blessed to have not only known but to be able to say he was a friend. R.I.H. Nokey!
Hey Tasha! It probably was our birthday party. It meant a lot to us that Nokey would come out and cook for our special day.
Thanks for written such an amazing article about my baby brother.
I salute you sir for this article. It brought me to tears. At the point where u mention that your coworkers left the jobsite. We were all honored with the pleasure. Of being in the presence of an angel on earth live & in the flesh. He was loved by all. Hated by none. I will never forget u my brother. PRIMETIME NOKEY
Big Nokey was my friend and i loved him. RIP
This couldn’t have been a more accurate and beautiful article….Rest On Nokey.
That was a beautiful article, definitely brought me to tears.
Say Bro…Love u mane..See u when I get there..Whichever direction ALLAH sends me…
An awesome testament of his wonderful this man was. I miss you Bigg Nokey but you’re resting in paradise
Remembering the life and legacy of a giant giant .. Absolutely beautiful article sir !(salute) Rest In Heaven my friend !!๐ข๐๐พ๐๐พ
Gentle Giant^^
It is said that an apple don’t fall to far from the tree, Nokey was such a loveable person that love people and loved to feed people because of his mother. Clarinda does the same thing. When you go to their home you never hardly ever stop and take a seat in the living room, you head straight to the kitchen table, where you can all ways find a good meal and some good Ice tea.. And if he is home then you will see NOKIE coming in to speak. They both are two lovely people. I am praying for Clarinda and her entire family as we mourn the loss of a great man. BIG NOKEY
๐ข๐ข couldn’t had said it know other way.
Nokey da best at what he did..love always bro
If everyone heart of gold like biggest nokey, what a wonderful world this would be!